Feeding your corn snake
Corn snakes are carnivores. In the wild they'll eat pretty much anything they can catch, kill and consume including small mammals, reptiles and amphibians. In captivity we tend to feed a diet of mice and occasionally smaller birds like quails or chicks.
But why?
This is purely down availability and ease of producing these food sources. There aren't any facilities breeding thousands of frogs for consumption or bats or smaller reptiles simply for consumption.
In terms of feeding and how often, let's look at a simple guide on how often first:
Baby/Hatchlings - up to 18 inches - every 5-7 days
Juveniles - 18-36 inches - Once weekly or once every 10 days
36" + but under 3 years old - Weekly to fortnightly
36" + and over 3 years old - Fortnightly or every three weeks
It's important to adjust your feeding schedule to your snake's physical condition. Obese and underweight snakes should be fed accordingly with the addition of, or reduction of, feeder prey size and frequency.
It should be noted that if you do have concerns about your snake's health - take them to a vet! Advice online can be great for most things but when it comes to health, always seek professional advice.
In terms of prey size, feed your corn snake feeder prey that is from one to one a half times the size of the fattest part of your snake. A simple tip to find your perfect prey size is lay your corn snake on a piece of paper and mark either side of the snake. Take this with you to compare prey size at the store. Remember aim for prey within the size guide for example your snake is 2cm thick - find prey from 2-3cm at their thickest point.
Oversizing your corn snake's prey size often can lead to health conditions like obesity, muscular disorders, jaw issues and organ damage. If you feel like your snake needs more food but the girth of your prey is becoming too large, down size their prey slightly and feed two prey items. Two smaller feeders is better than one oversized feeder.
Frozen/Thawed vs Live feeding
Frozen prey items are easily sourced, easy to store and easy to present. Remove your chosen prey item from the freezer and either leave overnight to defrost at room temperature or just fill a cup with warm water (not hot because this may partially cook your prey item), place your prey item inside with or without a plastic bag (honestly it makes zero difference whether it's wet or not) and change the water several times over the course of ten minutes to an hour depending on prey size. Just ensure they are defrosted properly.
Live feeding. Where to start with this one? You either like it or you don't from a humane perspective. Some feel it's a more natural way of feeding and gives mental and physical stimulation, others feel it's inhumane.
There are of course risks associated with live feeders in terms of rats/mice biting, harming and killing your corn snake. To reduce the risk, some people stun their prey items by striking their head but honestly if that's something you want to do - you do you. I couldn't personally.
Please also do not film live feeding events and post them online. There's an element of society that wants to ban pet keeping and this fuels the anti reptile sentiment who think they're mindless, slimy mammal assassins.
Feeding Methods
Tong feeding - Feeding with tongs is an engaging way to feed your corn snake and you can also create a little drama with offering a little wiggle when your snake grabs onto the frozen thawed prey source. It's also a safe method avoid any bites from uncoordinated snakes striking in the general direction of your offering. Just ensure the tongs you use do not have any endings that can fall off and into your snakes mouth. Some tongues have little rubber endings that can fall off and create a choking hazard or blockage in your corn snake.
Drop feeding - Perhaps the most common way of feeding snakes and less engaging between you and your corn snake but a safer way to avoid damage to you from bites and damage to your snake from tong strikes. Simple find a safe place to leave your prey item away from potential obstructions and hazards - and wait. It could be instant (usually is in fairness) or you may need to leave overnight. If you find you have a snake that likes to wait or is too shy to eat in front of you, I'd suggest leaving your prey item on the cooler size of the enclosure to avoid partial cooking from the heat source.
Water
Water bowls are essential for not only affording your corn snake a drink if they wish, but also some corn snakes use their water bowls to thermoregulate by either full or partial submersion. It should be noted that if you do find your corn snake submerging regularly, you may need to check your temperatures and humidity. There could also be an underlying issue, but equally this could be a quirk your snake has.